Microblading: The Process + Why as a Creative Professional I’m Obsessed

Working for myself, there is always the compulsory ruling of time. My hours are my own, with the flexibility to define my own schedule, albeit within the confines of deadlines and client requests. Work can ebb and flow, though, if you allow it, self employment can be a nonstop grind. Thus, efficiency is life. I’ve found that small things that used to matter fall to the wayside—I just can’t be bothered when I have a barrage of pending items on my to-do list including multiple events to attend and would also like to have some time to enjoy a meal, go on a walk with my dog, and spend some time with my husband. It’s this quest for resourcefulness that I decided to finally try microblading. 

My eyebrows have always been a point of contention for me. Sparse with light hair, they didn’t quite provide the frame I’d wanted, particularly to match my strong jawline. Each day, I filled them in; which is honestly a pain for a minimalist like me. Still, it’s the one thing that I never left the house without doing. While it’s semi permanent, I can be a bit of a commitment-phobe, especially when it’s needling something so exposed as my face i.e. dreams of the same tattoo for over a decade though never takes the plunge. My mother and sister had their eyebrows tattooed years ago, though being as particular as I am, I just wasn’t sold. And then, microblading came into the picture, where delicate lines mirroring fine hairs echoed real, fluffy eyebrows. 

I’d seen Melissa Byrne’s work first on Instagram as @archesmicroblading. I took in image after image of women with scant brows exit her studio with featherlike frons; and oh, I scrolled all the way to the beginning. What I was looking for were faces like mine—women of Asian descent where an overly done brow just wouldn’t be realistic. Byrne personalizes each set based on individual needs, client preferences and her eye for accentuating a face—she’s an artist. 

She’s always been a creative type, studying oil painting, still life, and comic book illustration at the Academy of Art. Unsurprisingly, the majority of her work is in acrylic and fine-line sketches. Byne also has taught at three different elementary schools in Sonoma via a non-profit called Art Escape. She came across microblading the same way that I did—via Instagram. 

“I was following a stained glass artist in 2016 @twiggylevy who said she had ‘just been microbladed’ I had no idea what microblading was, and I really couldn’t tell by her photo what she was talking about, so I Googled it and I was FLOORED,” she says. “Being a product of the 90’s sperm brow, I immediately wanted it done, but once I realized the method that was used, I thought, ‘I would be great at that.” And, boy was she right. Now, getting a session before six months is essentially impossible and when an opening pops up, it’s snagged in a matter of seconds. I was one of the lucky ones she snuck in. 

Driving up to Sonoma, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. I’d thought perhaps I’d be in a swanky salon, reminiscent of an upscale spa where you’re meant to feel pampered but inferior upon stepping into the space. Arches was entirely unassuming. Located in a strip mall, I was transported back to my childhood growing up in San Fernando Valley. Inside, it’s straightforward, and what I can perhaps best describe as a chic barbershop. It’s clean and casual with just the right amount of style and edge; and you feel immediately welcome. 

Women with saran wrap over their eyebrows were seated on green velvet sofas, cooly lounging on their phones. Geometric designs adorn white walls and four black beds make up the space along with four wooden tables alongside to review aftercare routines—the dos and don’ts to keep your brows looking fresh. 

Melissa greeted me with a hug and then had me lay down on a table. Patient with my questions, she listened intently and responded with as much detail as possible. I could tell she wouldn’t proceed unless I felt conclusively comfortable. Then, she swathed my eyebrows with pink numbing cream, and then I, too, entered the flock of ladies casually splain on the pair of sofas. I would wait for 40 minutes, enjoying a playlist of hip hop and r&b while women chatted services like plasmalift (“the worst it feels is like a sunburn, a bad sunburn”), gossip, and pop culture—standard colloquy within a beauty space. Patrons were adorned in tees, jeans, sundresses, and yoga pants and primarily were in their early to mid-30s, while a couple were older, perhaps in their 60s. Fabulous brows are ageless after all. 

When it came my turn, I lay back down on the table, she cleaned off my brows, and then drew in the hairs with a pen. I sat up to take a look, and immediately was blown away. As someone who simply filled in my brows with powder, perhaps topping it off with some Glossier Boy Brow, I had never seen them look so realistic. We made some micro adjustments and then she asked me to walk to the bathroom to take a look in the mirror from a different perspective and lighting. I was sold. She then mixed the ink and got to work. While I hadn’t expected any pain (there wasn’t any), the sensation was quite unique—as if my skin were rubber and I could feel the pressure of each stroke. And then there was the sound—as if she were scratching on stone. 

In terms of technique, she is continually taking training courses to improve her craft, but she does maintain her own style that makes her work look hyper realistic. She likes to layer her colors like a painting, putting the background down first and using a lighter color for the first session. A darker color is used for the follow-up appointment over the top to layer hair strokes at different angles to create dimension. 

“What people don’t understand about tattooing brows is that the negative space is what makes it look real,” Byrne explains. “If you do too much, the brow looks flat and one-dimensional. Hyper-realistic brows are layered, have different tones to them, flatter the clients face, and don’t look stenciled-on.”

She goes on to explain that no two brows should ever be the same. “The funny thing is every client is convinced that their eyebrows should ‘match’ but that’s not really the case.” In her last training, she studied under James Oloya, a plastic surgeon in Brazil, who was adamant about people being asymmetrical. There is imbalance in everyone’s face and brows should frame eyes individually. It’s about brows being perfect for individual features. It’s that that she strives to give her clients—a perfectly natural brow. 

“I think any good cosmetic work is undetectable. No one should ever know you have had ” something done.” 

Getting off the bed, she had me look in the mirror and I was awestruck. I couldn’t believe that I’d be able to walk away with these brows—this was a permanence I was absolutely on board for. Again, we discussed some micro adjustments and she had me look in the mirror in the bathroom once more before discussing after care and sending me on my way with printed materials. I was giddy and couldn’t help but stare in my visor mirror all the way home. 

The days following were quite simple with specific do’s and dont’s like no makeup (this was easier for me as I don’t wear any foundation or concealer), no sweating for at least seven days (more of a struggle), no sun exposure, etc. See the full list here. My brows darkened after a couple days with light scabbing. Brows then go through a fading process and a few hair strokes may fall out. Mine stayed mostly the same with perhaps a couple hairs missing afterwards, but I received endless compliments. And that was before the touch up. 

The second session was quick—just 30 minutes with Byrne making me laugh through the entire duration, including her shushing me here and there so she could steadily complete my brows. This time, it seemed I had essentially no healing period. There was no crusting as with the first time, barely any darkening. The week flew by unnoticed. 

It’s funny how such a simple thing can make an immense impact. The liberation of being able to wake up and start the day honestly is priceless. As one less element to worry about, it’s made life just a little bit simpler and more streamlined. Sure, I absolutely could just walk out the door without fussing over my brows, but it’s about a newfound sense of confidence. Best of all, I don’t have to put in any effort at all. Even something as silly as not having to worry about sweating or wiping off my brows at the gym makes all the difference. 

For more information on microblading with Byrne, follow along on Instagram @archesmicroblading or head to her website sonomabrowstudio.com.