3 Kazakhstan Designers You Need to Know Now: Redefining Modern Womanhood via the Runway

Kazakhstan wouldn’t be one of the first place to come to mind for design, but with its unique positioning at the crossroads between Russia, Asia, and the Middle East, this Central Asian Republic hosts the cultural elements necessary to concoct some of the richest designs in the fashion world today.

What makes Kazakh fashion so distinctive is its history and geography. In the pre-Soviet period the Kazakh people were a collection of nomadic tribes, sharing some cultural elements, while also maintaining their individual interpretation of art and fashion. Located south of Russia in Central Asia, Kazakhstan has seen invasion from the Mongol hordes, Imperial Russia, and the Ottoman Turks, each leaving its cultural imprint on the already diverse Kazakh tribes.

As a nomadic people, the Kazakhs had even further cultural interaction with societies from around the world, while their position in the center of the Silk Road trading route, brought even more riches and cultural influences over the course of hundreds of years, slowly becoming infused into Kazakh tradition.

Yesterday’s Oppression, Tomorrow’s Fashions

A former Soviet Republic, Kazakhstan was heavily Russified, while traditional Kazakh culture was suppressed. Although Kazakh culture has often been forgotten, disparaged, and even oppressed it remains rich in decorative arts expressing the unique blend of Russian, Turkic, Asian, and Islamic influences.

With a distinguishing interpretation of cultural elements from around the world and a firm foundation in nomadic heritage, Kazakhstan’s fashion designers might just be the fashion industry’s best kept secret. These designers capture a history and cultural legacy that can’t be replicated anywhere on the planet, while integrating inspiration from around the world to create truly delicious designs.

What makes these designers even more exciting, is their unique perspective on gender. Kazakh culture may be highly patriarchal, but the designers at the helm of all of these labels are women. In 2018, women in even the most egalitarian societies are grappling with their own patriarchal history, while trying to imagine the future of womanhood. That crossroad is exactly what these labels capture through their designs. Although each has her own personality, together these designers combine Kazakh history with the quest for modern womanhood.

These labels celebrate femininity while appropriating the fashions of their patriarchal history; the riding trousers of the nomadic tribes find new life in pink women’s pantsuits. In doing so, not only do they challenge gender roles in their society, they also uphold their long oppressed culture as worthy of art and international praise. And these women are certainly capturing international attention.

Assel

One of the most unique features of traditional Kazakh clothing are the silhouettes; developed from nomadic tribes who spent most of their days on horseback, while coping with some of the most severe weather in the world. Assel seamlessly blends these archaic shapes with traditional patterns, striking colors choices, and retro inspiration to create something uniquely Kazakh with international, fashion forward appeal.

With traditional patterns displayed in pastel colors and lines that subtly highlight the female form, femininity remains front and center. Assel draws inspiration from the Kazakh women of the past, as well as female pioneers around the world, like the women of color advancing aeronautics at NASA in the 1940s. These inspirations lead to designs that integrate Kazakhstan’s past with the quest for a modern, yet nuanced womanhood. Bulbous sleeves and boxy coats are transformed into suits and office wear for the working woman, while pastel colored peasant garbs become ready to wear fashion.

The visionary behind the label is Assel Nussipkozhanova, who has been awarded an Elle Kazakhstan New Name in Fashion award and was featured as a part of Vogue Talent 200. This month,  you can catch Assel at Milan Fashion Week.

Malli Showroom

At Malli Showroom, traditional Kazakh silhouettes find new life in ultra-feminine cocktail dresses. Delicate fabrics make bold statements that capture the juxtaposition between archetypal feminine vulnerability and the empowered strength of women. Manshuk Kuanisheva, or Malli, the woman behind Malli Showroom, draws heavily on inspiration from old Hollywood glamor as well as from Kazakh women of yesterday and today. Her designers are unique, but never overwhelming, serving as a tool to let the confidence and personality of each woman shine through.

As a business woman, an artist, and a mother, Malli redefines what it means to be a woman in Kazakhstan, while her designs are starting to get the attention they deserve. Not only are the worn by the who’s-who of Almaty, but Malli has collaborated with Saks Fifth Avenue, becoming the first Kazakh label to ever be sold in the iconic department store.

L’aroush

Founded by two generations of Kazakh women, mother-daughter team Arua and Shynar, L’aroush is an accessory label drawing inspiration from vintage glamor and Kazakh culture, to create pieces capable of transforming any look. With L’aroush you can expect hats, veils, capes, and more that are truly unique—many are single issue or limited edition.

These accessories are glam while still speaking to Kazakhstan’s history. Military inspired hats reflect Kazakhstan’s complicated history with the Soviet Union, as veils reference the sophistication of the past. Turbans, traditionally worn by men, are a particular highlight of the line, combining the Islamic influences of Kazakh tradition with fine Italian silk to create accessories that are somehow both elegant and eclectic, while capturing Kazakhstan’s position as a cultural crossroad.  If you’re visiting Kazakhstan, you can check out L’aroush at their newly opened boutique in Almaty.